Exuma Bahamas Travel Guide

There are over 700 islands in The Bahamas, but ask any seasoned traveler which one captures the essence of paradise, and the answer comes back the same: Exuma. The Exuma Cays are a chain of 365 islands and cays stretching across 130 miles of the most impossibly clear water in the Atlantic. This is where you will find the famous swimming pigs, the James Bond underwater cave, sandbars that appear and vanish with the tide, and a sense of untouched remoteness that feels increasingly rare in the Caribbean.

Unlike Nassau or Paradise Island, Exuma has resisted the pull of mass tourism. There are no cruise ship ports, no mega resorts crowding the shoreline, and no traffic jams. What you will find instead is a collection of intimate resorts, locally owned restaurants, and natural wonders that have to be seen to be believed. This guide covers everything you need to plan an unforgettable trip to Exuma, from getting there to the experiences that should top your list.

How to Get to Exuma

Getting to Exuma is the first challenge most visitors face, and it is also one of the reasons the islands remain so pristine. There is no direct commercial service from the United States to Exuma. Commercial travelers must route through Nassau's Lynden Pindling International Airport (MYNN) and then connect on a small regional carrier to Great Exuma's airport, Exuma International (MYEF), located near George Town. This connection adds hours and uncertainty to your journey, as regional flights operate on limited schedules and are frequently delayed or cancelled.

Private Charter from Florida

The most efficient way to reach Exuma is by private charter directly from South Florida. A light jet or turboprop from Fort Lauderdale (KFLL) or Miami (KOPA) reaches MYEF in approximately 75 to 90 minutes. You clear customs upon landing and can be at your resort within 30 minutes of touching down. No connections, no layovers, no lost bags.

For travelers heading to the central cays, particularly Staniel Cay and the swimming pigs, the preferred routing is to fly into Staniel Cay Airport (MYLS). This tiny airstrip accepts turboprops and smaller aircraft and puts you within walking distance of the Staniel Cay Yacht Club. Vanbert's operator network includes several carriers experienced with the Staniel Cay approach, which requires local knowledge due to the short runway length.

Inter Island from Nassau

If you are already in Nassau, regional carriers offer scheduled service to MYEF. Flight time is approximately 35 minutes. Alternatively, you can charter a small aircraft from Nassau to Staniel Cay for direct access to the central Exuma Cays. This is a popular option for travelers spending a few days in Nassau before heading to Exuma for the second half of their trip.

By Boat

The mail boat from Nassau to George Town takes approximately 14 hours and runs once weekly. While this is an authentic Bahamian experience, it is not practical for most vacation itineraries. Private yacht charters through the Exuma Cays are another option and offer a unique perspective on the island chain, but require significant time and budget.

Swimming Pigs at Big Major Cay

The swimming pigs of Exuma have become one of the most photographed attractions in the Caribbean, and for good reason. On Big Major Cay, an uninhabited island in the northern Exuma Cays, a colony of feral pigs has learned to swim out to visiting boats in hopes of snacks. The sight of full grown pigs paddling through crystal clear turquoise water toward your boat is surreal, joyful, and entirely unlike anything else you will experience in The Bahamas.

How to Visit

Big Major Cay is accessible by boat from Staniel Cay, approximately a 10 minute ride. Most visitors hire a local boat captain for a half day or full day tour that includes the pigs along with several other stops. If you are staying at the Staniel Cay Yacht Club or another nearby property, they will arrange this for you.

Tips for the Best Experience

Go early. The pigs are most active and most friendly in the morning before the midday tour boats arrive. If you can reach Big Major Cay by 9:00 AM, you will likely have the beach to yourself for at least 30 minutes.

Bring the right food. Local guides will provide appropriate food for the pigs. Avoid feeding them anything processed or unfamiliar. Fruits and vegetables are their preferred treats.

Watch your belongings. The pigs are bold and curious. Bags left on the beach will be investigated. Keep cameras and phones secure and above water level when wading.

Respect the animals. These are semi wild animals, not pets. Enjoy the interaction but do not chase, ride, or corner the pigs. The colony thrives because visitors treat them with appropriate respect.

Thunderball Grotto

Thunderball Grotto is an underwater cave system near Staniel Cay that has achieved legendary status for two reasons: it was a filming location for the 1965 James Bond film Thunderball (and later appeared in Never Say Never Again and the 2002 Bond film Die Another Day), and it offers some of the most spectacular snorkeling anywhere in The Bahamas.

The grotto is a hollowed out limestone formation accessible through underwater openings at its base. At low tide, the openings are partially above water and easy to swim through. Inside, you surface into a cathedral like chamber where shafts of sunlight pierce through openings in the rock ceiling, illuminating schools of tropical fish in the crystal clear water below.

Planning Your Visit

Timing is everything. Visit at low tide when the entrance openings are at their largest and the water level inside is lowest. At high tide, the openings are fully submerged and require confident underwater swimming to access. Check tide tables before you go.

Bring snorkel gear. The fish life inside the grotto is extraordinary. Sergeant majors, angelfish, parrotfish, and sometimes nurse sharks congregate in the protected waters. An underwater camera is essential.

Allow 30 to 45 minutes. Most visitors spend about half an hour inside the grotto, but there is no rush. The experience rewards those who take their time and explore the multiple chambers.

Staniel Cay Yacht Club

The Staniel Cay Yacht Club is the social heart of the central Exuma Cays and has been for decades. Part marina, part restaurant, part gathering place, the yacht club draws everyone from billionaires on superyachts to local fishermen. The atmosphere is deliberately unpretentious despite the wealth that passes through.

The club offers waterfront cottages and bungalows for overnight guests, a full service marina, and a restaurant that serves some of the freshest seafood in The Bahamas. The cracked conch and grilled grouper are legendary. On weekends, the bar fills with an eclectic mix of sailors, charter guests, and locals, and the energy is infectious.

For private charter guests arriving at Staniel Cay Airport, the yacht club is a five minute walk. It serves as an ideal base camp for exploring Big Major Cay, Thunderball Grotto, and the surrounding cays.

Best Resorts and Places to Stay

Grand Isle Resort and Residences

Located in George Town on Great Exuma, Grand Isle is the most upscale resort on the main island. The property features spacious villas with ocean views, a gorgeous infinity pool, and the Palapa Grill restaurant. It is the best choice for travelers who want resort amenities while maintaining access to the Exuma Cays by boat or short charter flight.

Staniel Cay Yacht Club

For those who want to be in the heart of the action, the yacht club's cottages offer waterfront accommodation steps from the best attractions in the Exuma Cays. Accommodations are comfortable but not luxurious in the traditional sense. The appeal is location and atmosphere.

EMBRACE Resort

A boutique property on Great Exuma with an intimate, locally owned feel. EMBRACE offers beachfront rooms, a respected restaurant, and personalized service that reflects genuine Bahamian hospitality.

Private Villa Rentals

Exuma has a growing selection of private villa rentals, particularly around George Town and on some of the private cays. For families or groups, a villa with a private dock and boat access offers the ultimate Exuma experience. Several Vanbert clients arrange villa stays with daily boat charters to explore the cays.

Dining and Nightlife

Exuma is not a nightlife destination, and that is part of its charm. Dining revolves around fresh seafood, Bahamian home cooking, and the kind of casual waterfront settings that make every meal feel like an event.

Chat 'N' Chill on Stocking Island, accessible by water taxi from George Town, is arguably the most famous beach bar in The Bahamas. The Sunday pig roast is a weekly tradition that draws visitors and locals alike. Arriving by boat with your feet in the sand and a Kalik beer in hand is peak Bahamas energy.

Shirley's at the Fish Fry in George Town serves authentic Bahamian cuisine including cracked conch, peas and rice, and fried snapper at honest prices. The fish fry area features multiple local restaurants and is a great way to experience the real food culture of The Bahamas.

Palapa Grill at Grand Isle Resort offers the most refined dining experience in Exuma, with a menu that elevates Bahamian ingredients into elegant presentations. Sunset dinners here are special.

Nightlife in Exuma is centered around resort bars, the yacht club, and occasional local events. If you are looking for clubs and late night scenes, this is not your island. If you are looking for starlit skies, the sound of waves, and conversations that go long into the evening over rum drinks, Exuma delivers perfectly.

Why Private Charter Is the Best Way to Reach Exuma

Exuma's limited commercial air access is both its greatest charm and its biggest logistical challenge. The islands have remained unspoiled precisely because they are hard to reach by conventional means. But for travelers willing to fly private, Exuma becomes remarkably accessible.

A direct charter from Fort Lauderdale to Staniel Cay takes approximately 80 minutes. You depart on your schedule, arrive at a quiet island airstrip, and are swimming with pigs within an hour of landing. Compare this to the commercial alternative: a three to four hour journey minimum involving a connection in Nassau, a regional flight, and the very real possibility of delays that add hours to an already long travel day.

For families, the private charter advantage is even more pronounced. Traveling with children through multiple airports and connections is exhausting. A direct flight in a comfortable cabin where kids can move freely, with a pilot who adjusts the schedule to your needs rather than the other way around, transforms the travel day from an ordeal into an adventure.

Vanbert's shared shuttle service also operates select routes to Exuma, offering per seat pricing that makes private aviation accessible to individual travelers and couples who do not need an entire aircraft. Check our deals board for empty leg opportunities on the Florida to Exuma corridor.

When to Visit Exuma

Exuma is a year round destination with consistently warm water temperatures and that famous turquoise clarity. The best time to visit The Bahamas applies broadly to Exuma as well: the dry season from November through April offers the most reliable weather, while summer months bring warmer water and fewer crowds at the cost of occasional afternoon showers.

For the swimming pigs and Thunderball Grotto, the experience is excellent in any season. Visibility in the Exuma Cays is remarkable year round due to the shallow, sandy bottom and minimal runoff. Water temperatures range from about 75 degrees in February to 85 degrees in August, comfortable for swimming without a wetsuit in every month.

If you are planning a fishing focused trip, April through June is prime season for bonefishing on the Exuma flats, considered among the best bonefish habitats in the world. The spring run draws serious anglers from across the globe.